Finding the Perfect Scent - So What's the Fuss?

Most people don't know that much about perfume and cologne. Combine basic ignorance with any of the following:

• A scent that once thrilled, but now annoys
  
• A discontinued favorite
• Confusion morphing to outrage as we accept the reality that manufacturers tamper with the formula and eau de wonderful is now eau de just ok
• Discomfort with the department store scene
• The search for one's very first fragrance -- a potentially joyful but intimidating rite of passage at any age

Goodness knows Adonis and Aphrodite in the glossy perfume advertisement (you know, the three pager with no scent strip) are not spilling the juice in the bottle. Her face says, “You bore me to tears, but I can’t live without Brand X perfume.” His face says: “It’s the body, stupid, and Brand Y cologne.” A picture is worth one thousand words and precisely zero smells.

Actually, the words don’t help much either. Perfume Advertising Bingo (scroll down the page, you won't miss it) spoofs the futility of seeking guidance from industry promotions. At any moment in time, a fragrance manufacturer, advertiser or retailer may not be motivated to promote the scent that is Perfect for You. You suspect that it exists. But how to find it…

Scent Branding Notes

Oh, you want to know the notes? In her address to Fragrance Business, 2008, Sue Phillips, President of Scenterprises, Ltd. reported that hotels, casinos and retailers are using these notes and blends to delight their patrons and brand the experience: linden, green tea, geranium and cedar, ginger and white tea, bergamot and jasmine, lavender and sage, and hyacinth.

Sue suggests that businesses consider building materials, archictecture, colors and geography when considering a scent theme. Most importantly, she adds, the target customer mood must drive fragrance development.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Coaches the Fragrance Industry

I recently heard François Duquesne of L'Artisan Parfumeur speak on the urgent need for aromatic reforms of all sorts. He urged a revival of authenticity, artistry and genuine personal engagement with fragrance consumers. What is the best way to develop and market scent? Kill the focus group, he commanded, and live with a few flops to staunch the flow of scents that are "too perfect to make a difference." Down with newness for its own sake. Stop training sales clerks and asking them to recall and recite marketing literature. Instead, forget the party line and take them to the fields where ingredients are grown, have them meet the perfumers and tell their own personal stories. Some distinctions that we make today may not be helpful. What is "niche?" In his native France, François explained: "niche is where the dog sleeps."